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2004 - Domaine Denis Bachelet, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
- Drinking Window:
- Cote de Nuits
- 92 NM; 95-97 WA
There are 8 barrels of the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru this year, five of them new. The bouquet demanded encouragement from the glass and it retains a sense of broodiness and introspection. This is holding everything back, although one can see that it leans more to the black side of the fruit spectrum compared to redder Corbeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, quite succulent tannin, but as always there is real elegance and poise here. It clams up a little towards the finish, just leaves the door open ajar, but sufficient to notice its impressive structure with a tingle of black pepper on the aftertaste. It will need several years in bottle, but it will be worth the wait.
The 2004 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is a step down from the 2002 tasted alongside, though given my lukewarm appreciation of this growing season, it is clearly one of this maligned vintage’s better wines. Comparing the two side by side, the 2004 shows more leafy character, to the point where you might deduce there is some stem addition. It is an expressive bouquet, developing scents of pressed flowers and black tea with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, quite bright and edgy with a tang of marmalade infusing the red fruit, grippy on the finish though without real persistence. It kind of wears its heart on its sleeve. Drink now and over the next 7 to 10 years. Tasted at the Gevrey-Chambertin lunch at China Tang in Hong Kong.