2006 - Taittinger Brut

Comprising roughly equal parts Pinot and Chardonnay, Taittinger’s 2006 Brut illustrates the delicacy for which their Champagnes are known, with a clarity and primary juiciness that combine for admirable nuance as well as refreshment. White peach, pineapple and lime are garlanded with honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley and mint, with subtle suggestions of piquant peach kernel, saline sweetness of raw scallop, and pungency of lightly toasted grains serving for further intrigue and allure. This bottling need not apologize in the least for its sense of finishing sweetness, as that merely reinforces its luscious fruitiness within diminishing the refreshment or next-sip-inducement to be derived. It may well prove fascinating to follow this for a couple of years in bottle, but given its buoyant, forthcoming and fruit-dominated personality, I would not want to miss out on enjoying it soon.